Advanced Customized Leather Shoes &Nbsp; Entering The Era Of Tripartite Confrontation
French custom leather shoes
brand
Pierre Corthay entered the local market months ago, plus the Italy brand Berluti, which has long been locally based, and the John Lobb of the United Kingdom.
The founder of Pierre Corthay came to the new interview to tell men's clothing.
leather shoes
How to break through, and the reason why "made to measure" leather shoes are popular.
Custom made suits are not new.
Making a pair of leather shoes is the most important position in men's fashion dictionary.
Why do we use "measure" instead of "measuring feet"? It is because shoes that are often overlooked by people should be the same with the temperament of men.
Pick a wrong pair of shoes, no matter how fastidious the trousers are, they immediately drop the grid.
In the country of advanced customized leather shoes, Italy brand Berluti and LVMH have more than 160 years of John Lobb, each according to two leading faucets.
Berluti was acquired by LVMH in 1993. Celebrity customers include Robert De Niro, Andy Warhol, Saint Laurent Yves Saint Laurent and Arnold Schwarzeneger.
In New York, you can only buy it in the only flagship store and Barney. There are only 8 stores in Europe, and Singapore has a specialty store.
John Lobb has a long history. The first flagship store in London is near the Royal Palace of Saint James, and its customers include king Edward Sis and fictitious figure James Bond.
It is said that the manufacture of a pair of John Lobb ready-to-wear shoes is time-consuming, so it can only produce 100 pairs of stores every day.
Today, John Lobb also comes to Singapore.
A month ago, the French Pierre Corthay, a high-end shoe brand, was also introduced exclusively to Malmaison by the Hourglass, a luxury boutique at Orchard Road. It joined the war of local senior custom leather shoes, resulting in a "grand event" of the "United Front" between Britain, France and Italy.
This French brand is not small, customers include brunei Sultan, and Lanvin, Christian Dior and other top brands are also looking for him to cooperate.
The founder, Pierre Corthay, is 49 years old. She used to work in John Lobb and Berluti, learning from two famous artists.
Pierre made a special interview with Xinhui customer in the past few years.
Pierre entered John Lobb in 1984, where she studied and absorbed the highest quality tradition in the world.
Luxurious
Shoemaking skills.
Two years later, his talent was appreciated by the Berluti family, and he was invited to fill the vacancy in the workshop director in Italy.
Pierre said, at that time, Berluti had not been bought by LVMH. There was only one store in Europe, and the entire company had only six or seven employees, which gave him unlimited creative freedom.
In John Lobb get the true story of traditional shoe making, in Berluti, he found the freedom of creation.
Nearly 6 years later, in 1990, he and his younger brother bought an old leather boots workshop in France -- Pierre Corthay was born.
Inspired by rock music {page_break}
Although the fine tradition of the two old brands is integrated, Pierre Corthay is not old at all. It is very novel in details, colors and shapes, showing the taste and attitude of men in the new generation.
The shoes are upright and handsome, and the color is very abnormal: there are layers of sea blue and bright red devil heads. The whole feeling is rock and roll.
This may be related to Pierre's listening to British and American rock and roll at the age of five.
Under the influence of his family, he listened to Pink Floyd, Janis Joplin, Rolling Stone, and they all gave him inspiration.
He seldom listens to French music, but listens to rebellious French pop music Serge Gainsbourg.
Except for shoes, music is the second life of Pierre.
He played bands with his friends, played Soul Funk, and played electronic music with his cousins.
He devoted his passion to the design and manufacture of his shoes.
If rock and roll advocate individualism and pursue self fashions, then "tailor made" is also an embodiment of individualism.
In recent years, the culture of tailor made a comeback.
Pierre thinks the reason is: "in the virtual age of network development, and the mass reproduction and production of material culture, people yearn for and pursue the value behind" handicraft ".
They began to look for real and real things.
What they want is touch -- not only the unique touch, but also the presence and reality of the product behind the product.
Unique, tailor-made is a price to pay.
Pierre Corthay shoes cost 1850 yuan to 2500 yuan per pair.
Custom made items range from 6000 yuan to 20 thousand yuan. The price depends on the leather used. The boa skin and crocodile skin are the most expensive.
Evocation of men's inner "women"
According to his unique color and design, Pierre said that men's fashion has undergone changes over the past ten years: "men are embracing their inner feminine" bit by bit.
The shoes were black and light brown 20 years ago.
But now the colors of men are beginning to shine.
Men's taste is liberated, but it also brings a wave of exaggerated, improper design style.
Pierre said, "I see more and more" hysterical shoes "(crazy shoes) on the market.
Everywhere is meaningless details, excessive decoration.
I advocate attitude, but this does not mean that the unique shoe design needs to be overly publicized.
I still advocate "less is more" and see creativity in simplicity.
Although a large company expressed intent to acquire, he liked the current mode and insisted on small operations to monitor the quality.
His studio in France has 7 people in charge of the advanced custom order, and the 12 person is responsible for the shoes.
Though a leader in custom-made leather shoes, Pierre is still very supportive of customers.
He said, "in terms of technology, the most important thing is the shape of a pair of shoes that are well customized.
My job is to control the shape of customers' shoes, because the shape of individual feet determines the comfort of shoes.
Tailor-made not only based on the "body" of different, but also with his observation and intuition to identify the overall temperament and personality of the guests, and set the direction of design.
In the process, Pierre plays the role of craftsmen, designers, and even psychologists.
It will take 5 months for Pierre Corthay to customize a pair of shoes from scratch.
He had to meet with his clients several times to understand their requirements, personality and appearance.
For Pierre, the real time consuming part is how to identify shoes from color, material to overall design, which can set off and highlight customer personalities.
Custom shoes will be addicted to {page_break}.
A pair of advanced customized leather shoes, like playing bands and playing music, is a creative process shared with guests.
Pierre must play the role of a psychologist in this aspect.
He had to sit alone with his customers, chat, and sometimes even drink a glass of wine to understand their spleen and personality. Then, the final design was finalized with the size, face and temperament of individual customers, and at the same time, their distinctive side was highlighted through minor details.
He has a French customer who has made fortune on the Internet and is 2 metres tall and has long hair.
Pierre first saw him and decided that this man, larger than life, needed a pair of shoes that were as dazzling as he could in order to match his extraordinary temperament.
Pierre returned to the workshop, like an inventor, sawing, cutting, and creating a pair of shoes with a long toe, a bit like Cadillac (Cadillac) car shoes.
The customer looked at the bright lights and customized 15 pairs of different colors and different leather.
Now this shoe is the only thing he owns and becomes the symbol of his identity.
Pierre said, "really comfortable and suitable for your shoes is that when you wear it, it feels like someone is holding your feet with your hands, like keeping your baby in the palm of your hand."
This is the charm of advanced custom shoes.
He said with a smile, "custom shoes are not the way to go. Finding a pair of shoes that care for both feet is enough to be addicted.
In front of him, I took the opportunity to give him a little test and asked him what kind of shoes I thought fit for an hour after I had spent an hour with me.
He looked like a photographer and looked at me carefully. He said confidently, without a minute, "your shoes that fit round head must not be pointed."
It is best to use bright surface snake skin.
The root of the shoe should be very modern, but it can be integrated into a piece of pre war retro wind.
Seriously consider the price of 6000 yuan to 20 thousand yuan...
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